Imagine we've' just arrived at a bridge at dusk. We are told we must exit the bus in order for it to make it up this next stretch. Together we trudge on, knowing well by now that Ukraine is full o many surprises. We follow this typical Ukrainian road up this mountain and in the hills. I feel somewhat like we are entering a scene from the Sound of Music. 15 minutes later, we arrive to a house, large for Ukraine, with a huge yard full of apple and walnut trees. There waits a family of Ukrainians to greet us.
By now I've gotten accustomed to being fed apon any arrival to a Ukrainian household. Still I don't properly prepare for it, so when we arrived to this home and family in the mountains who are prepared to feed all 20 of us, I'm full.
Aside: When I came here bright and early it was sunny and bright with the sun rising - now it's wet rainy 45 minutes later. I hope it will pass in 45 minutes.
Sunday we wake early only to learn that the time is changed. This turns out to be quite an amusing experience as the Ukrainians rush around speaking Ukraine and the Canadians look stumped to what is going on. Then Anton comes over and say go back to bed the time has changed.
In the meantime, John, Becca and I decide to trek down this mud cliff that Yulia has just come jumping out of. It ends up being a great way to wash up in the morning. We scale the cliff on the way back. Becca bails. John says I told you so.
Around 10:00 am 20 very different people head for a trek into the mountains. I'm in the equivalent of one of Geoff and my running outfits. Some people wear suede boots or little weird sport shoes. John is in shorts and a t-shirt. Ilsa has on 20 layers. For some this is their first hike! Russell, our supervisor, tells me it takes 45 minutes to get to the top. I'm picturing s sitting in this treed area in the rain, and ask if some of us can run it once and then do it again with everyone once we meet half way down. The guide/bus driver says no with a smile. I was about to be impressed.
All 20 of us plus our guide head up through people fields and onto this little trail laidened with stinging nettle. As John, in front of me, does a little cat dance and regrets wearing shorts, we climb upwards. By this time we are on a clear, abandoned logging road and take a break after hiking for 15 minutes. This is when a few of us decide to head off ahead and give 'er for the next 30 minutes. We steadily climb up for an hour - John, Nat and I run for a bit, then stop by this snow mound, sweating and wait for the group. Once we have gathered again by a trail that forks both ways, our guide tells us to have a break and won't tell us which way to continue. I'm satisfied with taking in the view from this point. The trees are in their glory - red, orange, yellow, and green. We are starting to see into the valley, and it's a bright and sunny fall day - spectacular. With a grin on his face, the guide tells us at the top of this hill lies a cross that the girls can make a wish on. Here's what you have to do - make your wish, run around the cross, kiss it, then kiss a boy and your wish will be granted. if you get their first, your wish will definitely be granted. Ukrainians love this stuff and take the lead at a run. I am in deep conversation with Marty, John, and Nat as we start to plan a trip in the mountains for this summer.
This part of the trail is breathtaking - mist floats through the forest of tall colourful trees - it a bit wet and mystical. I'm captured and choose to walk by myself for a bit. Near the end of this stretch I join with Yulia, Sam, Ilsa, and Yvone. At the top we can see an open field and a field of snow. It seems like spring up there - like spring skiing. Yula and I book it towards the snow. It's definitely wet corn snow and perfect for snow angels and sledding. Also a perfect way to cool off on a very warm fall day. This was the first of many snow ball fights as Yulia and I sat high up in the snow firing snow balls down on the crowd below. We both can't throw at all and even with the help of gravity, our hits we minimal - but so were those that hit us.
We carried on to the top - ahead were Marty, Nat, and John. a second later they had whipped off their shirts and were tumbling down this giant snow hill shirtless. Then they booked it down. This was pretty magical - we were up high enough that the view was spectacular, it was hot and sunny, the fall trees surrounded us below, we had hiked here and here were these boys I had grown to love rolling down a giant hill of snow - it was meant for a Sigur Ros video.
At the top of the ridge gave way to a panoramic view of mountain upon mountain - growing to the west. When you looked east, you saw a sea of clouds leading to a house and a cow ranch along the hillside. Southwest you saw mountains - it reminded me of being on top of Fat Dog. Northwest was a forest a bit higher where the trail continued. Everyone was opening their lunches and I thought this was the finale - beautiful. I was in luck, it continued.
After lunch in the sun, the majority of us continued on to see what was past the forest. Sarah and Ilsa stayed and I could see why. The rest of us scaled the ridge into the forest - moss covered, vast, beautiful. 15 minutes later, we came across a moss covered rock slide that rose upwards. As we headed in a line upwards the trees disappeared it got dry fast. Soon we were all scampering up big rocks to a view like no other. This was clearly the cherry on top of our trip. As Anton put it, you felt free!
We had some interesting discoveries on top: more snow, circular rock snowball forts ( like the beginning of an igloo made of rocks ), and an old BOMB! I don't know much about it, except it was a bomb and John picked it up with a big smile on his face and everyone else told him to lay it back down carefully with jitters going down their spine. it looked super old and was lying in the middle of one of these forts. John and Nat noticed this after standing on it for half an hour engrossed in snowball fights. We spent a while on the top before heading back down. I stayed at the back of the group with Russell and had my supervisor check-in which was pretty great.
When we got down to the ridge, Sam, Marty, Nat, and John were preparing to launch themselves down the snow field again. Russell and I watched. Then they did it again. I videoed this time. When they returned and watched the video they were full of energy and were debating going one last time. On a spontaneous whim, I said that I'd go if they went again - then Becca joined me. A second later we were rolling down this giant snowfield. As the Ukrainians would put it - we were being crazy canadians.
The way down way filled with discussion and we arrived an hour before dinner, sleepy, wet, in need of a shower, hungry, and truly satisfied.
After dinner, Sarah, Becca and I led "Crossing the Line". A very reflective, intensive group activity that we three anticipated doing the whole trip. It went really well and brought about a great deal of group and personal reflection. At the end, I felt so much more connected with the group.
Then it was Ukrainian Sauna time. The boys went first and the girls had 'true girl time' and hung out together as a whole for the first time since training camp. Together, around 10:30 pm we headed to the sauna. This was the best sauna experience I've ever had. Powered with wood from the forest, water from the stream and filled with girls that I was bounding with on such a deep level, despite cultural differences, made this the best sauna I'd ever had.
I'm going to stop now, and I'll finish later - there's still so much more to tell. It was a full weekend!
Love,
ellen
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